Thursday, May 22, 2014

Life is...muy tranquilo at the lake




Kim: Our days have enough focus here to keep us busy, but we still have plenty of hanging out time too! Life at the beach and on Roatan seems very far away. We look at the photos and we wonder if that was really us living there. I am working and observing as a speech language pathologist/therapist at Centro Maya, a center for kids with disabilities, in the Mayan village of San Juan La Laguna. It is a short boat ride (launcha) from our village of San Marcos on Lake Atitlan. I am there a couple of days a week and have really enjoyed sharing experiences with another SLP named Ane, the Guatemalan speech therapist. We have compared therapies, education, job possibilities and spoken of future job/cultural exchanges. It has been rewarding, as I did not have a peer exchange at all when I was working as an SLP on Roatan. The center has a vocational component where some of the older special needs students bake bread, sew bags and other items and make jewelry for sale in the community. This is so inspiring to see and the center as whole is so much more developed than anything that exists on Roatan (yet!).

Workshop at Centro Maya

View from our roof
As Dan mentioned, our Spanish school has been amazing. Marino and Lucia are really enjoying the 3 hour private Spanish classes. They are each taught by a local Mayan woman they laugh with, go exploring in the pueblo with, visit their homes, and sing songs with. It has been a long process learning Spanish, but we are really enjoying the experience of this school, the family that owns it, and the teachers at the school. Taking a launcha to school, studying in open air classrooms in a coffee field and sampling the local brew at break time are only a few of the highlights.
Marino getting art lessons

Mini Marino - Benedicto Jr

Dan, el trabajador del campo


            Life in San Marcos and at Lake Atitlan is difficult to portray. It feels like life full of little vignettes, such as……buying freshly cut mangos sprinkled with salt and masa (pazul?) from a woman in the doorway to her home, eating tostadas on plastic stools at the plaza, playing in the old playground and seesaw in the centro, hearing broadcasts from the evangelical churches throughout the day, the bell of the trash truck, the dog poop that is always in the middle of the path, the dogs that have their own parallel dog village life, hearing the local Mayan languages of Tz'utujil and Kakchikel, hearing the sound of tortillas being handmade (slap, slap, slap),  and always the backdrop of the beautiful vast lake with towering volcanoes behind it. 
Old fashioned see saw
            It feels like we are in a tranquil waiting period for our USA re-entry. We study Spanish, talk and spend time with the family, Benedicto and Maria (and their 2 children) that own the Spanish school, wander around San Marcos, and pass quiet hours in our peaceful lovely garden oasis. What an adventure we have had. Life has continued without us back at home and at times this has been difficult. We have lost two good friends this year during our absence, but another has beat cancer. Marino and Lucia seem like they have grown up so much this year and I am sure we will really notice this when we return to our life in Santa Fe. We are questioning for ourselves how to not get completely back on the racetrack of an American style life. We want to preserve some of the slowness we have enjoyed this year.


Mother's Day

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Life is good in Guatemala


May 20, 2014- Life is good in Guatemala
Dan-    As I sit to write this blog post, Marino and Lucia are outside throwing homemade bamboo spears in the beautiful gardens of the house we are renting. The spears are decorated with colorful feathers (Makaw, parrot, owl) that Marino has collected on our trip around Guatemala. Kim is volunteering at a clinic in a town on a different part of the lake. The sun is out, and it is another warm morning (it has been cold here for us tropical islanders).  Life is good in Guatemala.
            This is our second week at Lago de Atitlan. We are renting a lovely house tucked in the center of the Mayan town of San Marcos. It is our last stop before returning to the States. 



Half of our days here have been spent taking one-on-one Spanish classes at a wonderful family run school located at another small town on the lake. Everyday of the week we take a water taxi to school. The Eco Spanish School (http://www.ecolanguages.net/sanjuan.htm) is run by Benedicto and his wife Maria. It is also a small organic coffee farm. Kim and I have been over-joyed with Lucia and Marino’s willingness and happiness to take classes. In addition to studying Spanish the kids have taken field trips into town (getting treats of coco bananas), walked the coffee plantation, and done a good amount of art. Today, Marino is going to his maestra’s casa to make tortillas. I think they really love the one-on-one attention and they have creative, funny teachers. Kim and I are going to have classes on weaving and medicinal plants this week.  This week after classes, Marino is taking art classes from Benedicto, who is a well established international painter.

 Going to Spanish school in a launcha (water taxi)

 The return from school is usually in a tuk-tuk (3 wheel motorcycle from Asia)



 Marino gets help from three maestros!


In and around classes, Marino and I have been volunteering on the coffee campo (farm). The parents are wanting to explore the other town and villages around the lake, or take hikes, but this has proven difficult with the kids. When we are not in Spanish classes they are happy being at our house reading, playing cards, or fighting! At least we have a beautiful house for all this to happen in.

 Our friend Zoe who we know from Santa Fe


Thursday, May 8, 2014

Guatemalan Temple Run- the real online game


May 4, 2014 – Guatemalan Temple Run
Lucia- My favorite part of Tikal and the other ruins around there was climbing the temples. It was fun to climb up them. My favorite animals to see was the baby spider monkeys. Papa and I had howler monkeys throw sticks and fruit at us and tried to pee on us.






Dan- It has been a surreal trip through the Peten area of Guatemala. We have seen the impressive ruins of Tikal. They are majestic, even in the scale of the lush jungle that the ruins lie in. We visited more remote ruins (that our rental car allowed us to go to). They are Uaxactun, Yaxha, and Topoxte. These ruins were all located in the region of Tikal. They were not as grand as Tikal, yet each had their own distinct architectural style or uniqueness.
            Guatemala has done a great job of making these ruins into national parks. Alot of money and time has been put into the infrastructure of the parks. They are equivalent to national parks in the States. The trails are well marked with informative signs, clean facilities, and helpful park employees.
            I have loved seeing and hearing all the wild life in and around the ruins, especially at Tikal. I don’t remember seeing so many things the last time Kim and I were here. Birds we have seen or heard include: macaws, toucans, parrots, and falcons. Other animals have included: howler and spider monkeys, fox, coati (red raccoon), qouti.  We stayed at an expensive hotel right at the park entrance of Tikal to experience more of the wild life, and it was worth the price. It also made the sunrise hike into the park later. We left at 4am instead of 3am if we stayed in the nearest town to the ruins.




Coati


Marino- The ruins were great because you could climb up them and play on them. I liked Tikal the most because it was most the most excavated ones. I really liked our guide, Rony. He wants to be an archeologist. The car trip was hot and boring. I really didn’t like it.




Hot afternoons at the pool in Tikal

Kim - Driving a rental car around Guatemala has been quite the experience! I have been chief navigator with no GPS and Dan was the head driver. We had a few days of 11 hours in the car, which is incredible given that on any one day the most distance we covered was 190 miles! Dan and his passengers often felt like we were all playing Guatemalan Temple Run as he avoided tumulos (huge speed bumps), pot holes, animals (pigs, dogs, cows, horses, chickens, turkeys), people walking, slow vehicles, cars passing the opposite direction, motorcycles, road soccer games, and police check points. It made for top speeds of about 30-40mph and required nerves of steel, which was often difficult given the fighting kids in the back seat! I spent a fair amount of time in the back seat with Lucia to give the kids a break from one another. At one point we went on the same road 5 times in Guatemala City while we were trying to leave! Another time we took a 2 and a half hour detour when we headed East instead of West leaving the town of Lanquin in the mountains!

Things to avoid on the road!



No one told us about the river crossing on a barge!


 

So given all that as a backdrop, we had amazing times at the ruins we visited. Howler monkeys were right outside our bedroom in Tikal all night talking to each through their screeches and howls. We climbed temple 4 at Tikal in the pre-dawn darkness and sat in silence with a group of 30 other people while we listened and watched to the jungle come alive. Marino and I sat and sketched during sunset atop one of the temples in the main plaza and the next evening at sunset we watched a group of spider monkeys scamper and walk across the top of a palace ruin across from us. The next day we explored Uaxactun, a remote and mostly unexcavated ruin north of Tikal, where some local boys showed us a vent hole that had cold air coming out of it and we observed some archeologists restoring some carvings. The ruins outside of Lago Peten Itza were called Yaxha and Topoxte. It included a boat ride across a crocodile filled lake, tall temples with views of the surrounding jungle and lake, and hardly any other people.


The places we have stayed have really added to our experiences. At the lake near Tikal we stayed at a small family run hotel where Marino and Lucia got to play with the children of the owners and other children that were visiting as well. French, English, and Spanish were the languages spoken but not shared among the children! We were able to explore during the day, swim in the lake, swing from a tire swing, and hang out. 
The next place we stayed outside of Lanquin was set in the jungle. It was a hostel style place that also had private cabins and family style meals for dinner. We talked with many other travelers and it was incredible watching the kids have their own interactions as well. Marino taught origami to a handful of folks and Lucia told jokes and laughed a lot. One day Dan and I actually got to go on a hike to some hanging bridges while Marino and Lucia stayed behind a took a class about how to make chocolate from cocoa pod to finished product.


 Not only did we have lovely human interactions, we visited the gorgeous limestone pools of Semuc Champey two days in a row. We were able to swim in the cool pools, bump down limestone slides, and jump from up high. The pools are a turquoise blue green surrounded by steep jungle walls with a raging river that runs underneath them! A wonder of the world to be sure. These were not accessible to tourism the last time Dan and I traveled in Guatemala. 




Our wrong turn and huge detour occurred on the way back to Guatemala City and made our return to GC 7pm instead of the afternoon. Oh well. All is well that ends well and we are at our house at Lake Atitlan for five weeks. More soon on that….. 

Copan Ruinas Photos!